Our baking obsessed culture might be delighting in the excess of cronuts, cupcakes, macarons and cakepops we’re currently encouraged to eat, but our bodies aren’t.
Did you know that the The World Health Organization recommends that we only consume about six teaspoons (or 25g) of the stuff a day? That’s a revised figure, down from 10% of your daily calorie intake, and it’s oh, so, easy to exceed, especially when sugar is hiding in so much of what we consume. Popular smoothie brands, for example, can contain over 31% sugar per 250ml, so it’s not merely a case of looking at sugar frosting on a bun, and saying, “I’ll pass.”
But it’s not just about weight gain and the associated health risks like type 2 diabetes either. Sugar is also absolutely terrible for your skin, because it causes a process called glycation, a lot of which is understood because of research into diseases like diabetes.
Crepeiness is the big glycation indicator and very early ageing, even if you’re not smoking and protecting from UV rays
It works like this: sugar molecules bind to the stuff in our skin that keeps it supple and plump, like collagen and elastin, and cause those molecules to stiffen and shorten. The result on the skin’s surface is crepeiness, lines, wrinkles and sagging, as the skin’s essential structure is hardened, and broken down by an excess of sugar.
Think it’s nonsense? I had a chat with a couple of derms and expert therapists for a piece I wrote for STELLAR a while ago and all agreed it’s very real. One therapist told me that while glycated skin has always been an issue, and environmental factors cause it too, she’s now seeing it in women as young as their twenties. Particularly, how will you know if you’ve got it? Crepeiness is the big indicator, apparently, and very early ageing, even if you’re not smoking and protecting from UV rays.
Previously, there wasn’t a whole hell of a lot you could do about it either; some high end brands like Skinceuticals and Chantecaille have products for prevention, but treatment’s always been a bit trickier.
Now Nuxe’s reformulated Merveillance Expert range is looking to be a game-changer in the field, because the brand has identified a protein called vimentin, part of the skin’s essential building-block structure along with collagen and elastin. Unexplored, they say, and able to be targeted by a new ingredient called Daylily, which is what it sounds; a flower that lives for a day.
A unique way of harvesting the lily’s properties was found, and Nuxe has created a suite of products that not only prevent skin glycation, but which will also de-gylcate skin too; this is the bit I was interested in.
Working on the three skin proteins, Nuxe says, “it is possible to uncouple sugars that have recently bound to dermal proteins, in other words, to de-glycate em, and has proven this in an ex-vivo test: application of a 1% concentrate of the oleoactive ingredient of Daylily to a previously glycated explant restores the structure of the fibroblasts, thus demonstrating the de-glycation of vimentin.”
Of course the proof will be in the pudding (pun absolutely intended)
The result for skin? Some immediate benefits thanks to other ingredients like hyaluronic acid to pump in moisture and plankton polysaccharides to tighten, but over time, because collagen and elastin are being de-stiffened, you should see more plumpness, suppleness and therefore a reduction in wrinkles too
It all sounds great, but of course the proof will be in the pudding (pun absolutely intended). Products will be available from September, and prices are as follows:
- Serum Merveillance expert, €43
- Merveillance expert Jour, €40
- Merveillance expert enrichie Jour, €40
- Merveillance expert Nuit, €40
- Merveillance expert Yeux, €31
Does this sound like something that’ll interest you?